Camino del Norte: Day 23, Baamonde to Sobrado Do Monxes

We started off today knowing that we had to walk a lot of miles on pavement, but having the right mindset was important for us to stay positive. The Albergue that we were headed to didn’t open until 4:30 this afternoon so there was no real rush to get out the door.


The beginning of the walk was really nice, not a lot of pavement and the weather had warmed up a bit. We are in Galicia country currently (we’ve gone through four “country’s” of Spain: Basque, Cantabria, Asturias, and now Galicia) and the scenery has changed very little since Basque country. Rolling hills, farmland, pavement, no more ocean views. We did see a field of windmills today which was an interesting change up.Though I am thankful that throughout this hike it has been very green and lush. We even bought carrots yesterday to feed some lucky horses, but of course today was the day we didn’t see any up close.


Our walk consisted of mostly music and snack breaks. We were trying to figure out the fastest way to the Monastery that we were staying at while still stay close to the “official way.” What was most different about today though was the amount of people we saw. Everyday it has been growing, but today it was especially a lot. This was the first day that we went almost the whole walk with either having someone behind or in front of us that we could see. It was overall, a really long day of walking, but our bodies were able to handle it well.


When we arrived in the town Sobrado Do Monxes we could tell that it functioned solely off of the medieval monastery and the tourists it brought. Most of the monastery is being renovated but the portion in which pilgrims are housed is open. We wandered through the town and purchased some of the most overpriced groceries we’ve seen. Rarely do we spend over 15 euro and when we do it usually equates to two very full grocery bags. For that price today, we got maybe six items.


We checked out all the cafes and shops around the monastery to see if we could potentially eat dinner out this evening. The cheapest little bar looked like it had decent food, so we tried their churros con chocolate and had a beer and wine. Well that didn’t go over too well as the wine tasted like vinegar and the churros were the lowest ranked thus far. At least it helped us decide that we should cook tonight instead of eating out.

The check in process for the Albergue was very odd. We waited outside of a gate and then were let in a few people at a time. Then we waited outside a door and another few people were let in. Finally, we waited inside a room and got our credentials stamped and our money collected. After that we were directed outside to listen to a man who didn’t speak English explain everything we needed to know about this place. It was just a lot of us nodding and hoping that we could figure out the rest on our own.


After we settled in, we hung out in our room for the night. It looks like a giant cement wine cellar, almost like a bunker with 13 bunk beds per “cellar.” The area is freezing, and they have one of those portable heaters that looks like it’s from my childhood that for sure is a fire hazard now. It’s cozy and cheap, so it will do for the night!


We quickly prepared dinner of pasta and sausages (one of our better made meals) and then finished it off with some Activia. Scott is convinced that we have spent at least $100 on Activia since we started this hike because we eat at least a pack a day. It really is the one of the only fresh and healthy things we can find. After finishing dinner Scott is almost instantly attached to his Netflix show and I’m about to do the same.


Tomorrow is going to be an interesting day because we are finally meeting up with the Camino Francis (the most popular camino). We are REALLY excited for the people watching, but are not really sure what to expect.

Today’s Stats:

Number of km: 40.3km

Percent paved trail- 27.2km

Percent unpaved trail- 13.1km

Difficulty- Medium
Cities passed through: Carballedo, A Lagoa, Miraz, A Roxica
Albergue- Albergue de Peregrinos, pillows, full kitchen, outdoor space, clothes lines, hot showers, and wifi

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